There have been several news stories lately about dogs suffering greatly at the hands of "trainers" while staying with them. A Great Dane, starved and wounded. An English Bulldog, dead and hidden. Another family in California left their two dogs with a trainer one was killed and the other seriously injured from the trainer's dog mauling them. This has all happened in the last month. Locally I have personally seen dogs come back from franchise trainers with neck sores, ear infections, half starved, and broken. It is scary. It is a real problem. 

I offer a unique board and train service, my program uses no shock, prong, or choke collars. I will never put results above the welfare of your dog. I firmly believe learning should never hurt. When an owner entrusts me with their dog I am humbled and honored. My clients adore their dogs, they are their family and the time they spend with me they are treated as my family. My current set up allows for one dog to stay with me and my family at a time. They receive at least one hour of solid training split over the day with playing in a large fenced yard, relaxing in the living room, and learning from three well adjusted adult dogs. There is no chain-link run with a concrete floor, there are couches and orthopedic dog beds. I often refer to my house as Doggy Disneyland.

After we meet for the pick up your dog is taken home with me in a crate or seat-belted. Once we arrive at my home your dog is given free roam of my fenced backyard and training starts. It doesn't start with the skills we talked about, those will come. No, in the beginning I am teaching your dog that I am a source of good things with no social pressure. I sit in the middle of the yard with something tasty in my pockets. Eventually or right away your dog will start to focus in on me, this process takes anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour occasionally longer, but I'm patient. Depending on how comfortable your dog is I can then start to introduce them to my dogs. If your dog needs more decompression time they are taken to my training room for some alone time with a safe chew toy. My main focus at this point is to make your dog as comfortable as possible. After some decompression time it is back out to the yard. Your dog decides what we do, more free engagement, a game of chase, fetch, playing with my dogs, or maybe some training. The days continue on and we start to train the skills laid out in our first meeting. There is no rush here because a comfortable dog learns quickly. You will get videos and pictures daily with weekly written updates so you know what is going well and what might need more work.

I do not offer any guarantee and you should run far and fast from anyone who does. Your dog is a living creature with their own thoughts and feelings. Traditional board and trains use force and with the liberty of no owners around they can be down right cruel. They will make your dog behave by any means necessary. It is scary. It is a real problem. What is the solution?

The responsibility is on you as the pet owner. It is important to know who is taking your dog and what they will be doing. Not just for board and train but for any training! You are the only one who will advocate for your dog. Observe the trainer, ask to speak with past clients, ask about professional affiliations, keep asking questions. Our dogs deserve better treatment.

In this article I will be using learning theory language. Positive and negative mean adding and subtracting respectivly. Therefore positive punshiment means the addition of a punisher and negative reinforcement means the removal of something unpleasant. Punishment means the behavior is decreased while reinforcement increases the desired behavior.

Call them what you would like; shock collars, training collars, electronic collars, e-collar. These collars work by administering a static shock to your dog with remote control. There are two main ways of using these tools, positive punishment and negative reinforcement. Understanding how and why these tools work is nessesary whether you are using them in your training or advocating against them. We also must understand that if these tools did not cause discomfort they would not work. Living being's behavior is dictated by two driving forces, we can work for something we want or avoid things that we don't. That's it. There is nothing that you do that isn't either enjoyable or you fear the consequences of not doing it. If you can think of anything, please post it in the comments.

The proper use of an e-collar requires introducing it at low levels, teaching the dog that they can turn off the sensation through their actions. This is the very definition of negative reinforcement.

​Something else that controls through negative reinforcement is addiction. Having been a decade long smoker I can atest that being controlled through negative reinforcement is unpleasant. When a craving for a ciggarette hits it starts as a mild feeling of need. When you don't satisfy that need it grows into discomfort, this causes irritability and other side effects until you give in and take that first drag. There is a reason addition is called a monkey on your back. That first puff is so very satisfying. But why? Ciggarettes do not taste or smell good, there is certainly no health benefit of smoking them. The satisfaction comes from the relief of discomfort, this is also the definition of negative reinforcement.

Like smoking e-collars have side effects that are not apparent from the start. Like smoking the side effects are physical and mental. These side effects stew under the surface until they develop into full blown problems. With smoking we all know cancer is a real risk. With e-collars dogs can develop aggression, anxiety, and become increasingly fearful. Behavior problems are the number one cause of dealth for dogs in America, just as cancer is a leading cause of dealth in humans. The fallout is well documented, though not to the extent of the side effects of smoking.

E-collars work. That is not an issue that is up for debate. If they didn't work they would not have such wide spread use. The question is at what cost?

Is it possibly to train a puppy to go potty outside without a single accident? The answer is yes, but...

Potty training is very simple in theory but can be difficult in practice. I follow what is known as error-less potty training. This method works for both puppies and adults. Depending on your diligence and your dog's history it has a very high success rate. This is the program I put all my own dogs on as well as the many board and train dogs that come through our home. The perfect potty training system consists of three parts; managing so your dog or puppy can only make the right choice, putting them on a schedule, and reinforcing behavior that you do want. 

Management is the temporary prevention of unwanted behavior and is a pillar in perfect potty training. There are several techniques that work well and are at your disposal. Crate training is very useful for puppies and adults, crates should be large enough that the dog is able to turn around and lay down. If the crate is any larger you risk your dog trying to potty in the corner. If your dog is also soiling their crate remove all bedding until you've built more value into going potty outside. When your dog is outside of their crate you need to have constant vigilance! Especially if your dog goes to a secluded corner of your home to potty. There are several different options for keeping your eyes on your dog. My two personal favorites are tethers and exercise pens. For a tether use a leash attached to something sturdy such as a couch, door handle, or install an eye hook in the baseboard, you can also tie your dog to yourself. Using a tether allows you to passively watch your dog while doing other activities such as reading, watching t.v, crafting, or working/playing on your computer. If your dog starts to sniff and turn in circles, get them outside! If they do start to go, clap your hands and say potty outside then take them immediately outside. The exercise pen is useful if your dog is uncomfortable being tethered or will chew through the leash. I prefer to use ex-pens for puppies as they also will manage the environment of the dog to control their access to chewable items and other dogs in the home. The concept of the ex-pen is the same as a tether, you're able to have your dog with you but contained. You can also use baby gates to keep your dog in the same room as you. Baby gates are not a good option if your dog can go behind you without you noticing and potty. I once had a foster that would get behind me and potty, he was the fastest pooper I ever met and had to be tied to me. Management boils down to keeping your dog under your supervision, if you ever have to wonder where your dog is you need to up your management game. Unsupervised time is a privilege, not a right. If you potty in the house, you do not get the run of it.

If you are having a hard time with potty training you need to think about putting your dog on a set schedule. With puppies under four months it is really easy to predict when they are going to have to go potty. After a puppy eats they're going to have to go number 2 within the half hour. If you're feeding at a specific time you can plan to potty them soon after. With really young puppies and adult dogs start taking them out once every hour. Keep track of what times your dog is going potty and decrease potty breaks from there. Print and use the potty training schedule chart at the bottom of the article. 

The third and final pillar of perfect potty training is rewarding the behavior you want. We want our dogs to go potty outside and we need to communicate that to our dogs. The best and fastest way to do that is with the use of high value food*, think bacon, not kale. This treat should be something your dog does not regularly get, break out the ham, chicken, or steak. When you take your dog outside take them to one spot in your yard on a leash. Completely ignore your dog and wait them out. As soon as your dog squats down tell the "potty", or "outside", my cue is "hurry up". As soon as your dog finishes reward them with THREE treats fed in a row, that's, 1-2-3. You dog will think, "Wow! That was awesome! I need to figure out how to do that again!" After several repetitions of rewarding pottying outside your dog will connect the dots, they can trade in pee and poo for treats. Most adult dogs figure this out in less that two weeks, puppies take a little longer because of their smaller bladders. 
*Nitro 
Nitro was very hard to potty train. He was heavily punished for pottying inside with past owners. When he first came home he would cringe if he had to go in front of me, running up and showering him with treats did not work. What did work was throwing a ball immediately after he finished had him demanding to poop outside within a week. 

If you reward each time and the dog is managed so that the only times they potty are outside potty training can be perfect. If you ever punish your dog for doing to the bathroom inside you are teaching them that you are unsafe to potty around. We want the exact opposite! I want the happy reaction of a toddler crapping in the toilet the first time, every time. 

Once your dog picks up the habit start to think slot machine with your rewards. Soon it will become habit, just as we need our American toilets to feel comfortable. I have attached the chart I use for my clients below. Best of luck!

Let me start by defining what is known as a straw man argument: "A straw man is a common form of argument and is an informal fallacy based on giving the impression of refuting an opponent's argument, while actually refuting an argument that was not advanced by that opponent." Baiscally it means that someone builds this inaccurate representation of something they are against and then they take it down, piece by piece. 

Nitro was alone, again. His family left him with so many strangers and scary dogs. What was worse was that it was his second time back here. All the noise from the other dogs and the "firm hand" he faced when he yelled at the others to leave him alone. He was a good boy. All he wanted to do was rip up paper and chew his bones maybe a fun game of fetch. He didn't understand why the humans would get so angry. It was his bone, they gave it to him! They never listened so he had to scream, maybe that is why they left him here.

Nitro was so fearful of my husband and I when we went to meet him. We drove two hours to meet this little guy who seemed full of spunk and life. When we got there he was cowering, a shell of a dog. He was only five months old. I wanted him from the moment I saw him, this little dog was meant for me, he needed me. Nitro like so many others was surrendered because he was guilty of being a high energy, resource guarding, un-potty trained, squirrell chasing, little pistol. In an adorable wirey little terrier package. This is a dog that you could say "no" to a thousand times and he would start to scream it back at you with his teeth. 

The only people who believe that purely positive exsist are those that believe in a balanced approach or traditional punish and praise. I myself am a positive trainer. I use positive reinforcment to reward behavior I like rather than punish behaviors I don't, the term force free applies to me. I am one of those zelots that don't say "no" to dogs. Does that mean that I don't set boundaries? Nope, as I write this little Nitro is in his x-pen because he is learning to settle down and relax when mom is on the computer.

I work with all types of dogs big dogs, little dogs, low energy dogs, high energy dogs, food motivated dogs and non food motivated dogs. Dogs that are rambunctious and dogs that are aggressive. More importantly I have helped owners find ways to work with their individual dog. I use postive reinforcement the vast majority of the time. Just because I don't say "no" or give physical corrections doesn't mean that I don't use punishment. No where does it say that punishment must be mean, nasty, or painful to work. Punishment can be taking something away that the dogs want. You bite me I stop playing or step over a gate, or close a door between us. For puppies when they bite I will yelp "ow" and get up and move away. That yelp? That is what is known as positive punishment (I know a little confusing) which is adding something unpleasent combined with getting up and moving away which is again taking away what they want. At the same time I am rewarding behavior I like with play, treats, and affection. Whether it is a large dog or a small one, young or old. Behavior that is rewarded is more likely to occur. Every dog I work with is an individual and some methods work for some and not others. Luck for me my "tool box" contains a variety of methods that do not emcompass force, fear, or intimidation.

Well what about nature? Other dogs use phyiscal force and so does the environment. This is true, and I have no problems with a dog correcting another dog without damage. I've also worked in a doggy daycare, corrections could result in scuffles when a correction isn't taken. The enviroment doesn't care about the dog, a porcupine wants to live, using quills is how it avoids being eaten. My older beagle mix corrects Nitro often, less than before but will tell him to knock it off when she has had enough-I usually praise her. Yuna wants a very different relationship with Nitro than what I want. She would probably prefer that he leave her the heck alone and allow her to eat all his food. I want Nitro to love being around me. I want him to come when I call him and walk on a loose leash next to me. The fact that we have developed a wonderful relationship that trumps chasing birds in the field or killing my ferrets. He wants to do what I want him to do, he never fears the consequence of not doing it. Even when he is chasing some varmit in "the real world".

A great number of dogs have unwanted behavior based in fear. Almost every single dog I have worked with that has shown aggression are fearful. As are many dogs that are thought of as stuborn. This is truth and if you ask any positive trainer they will tell you the same. However, not all behavior problems are based in fear. That is just silly. Many unwanted behaviors are simply normal dog behaviors; jumping, chewing, digging, mouthing, and the like are what dogs do. It is our job as owners to teach them what we want instead of jumping, give them proper chew items, and release both their mental and phyiscal energy through training. Focusing on how you want your dog to act and teaching them to do it will result in a well behaved dog that has excellent manners built through habits.

Timing is very important in dog training regardless of what method one may choose to use. A poorly timed leash pop or zap with an e-collar could result in negative associations with the surrondings, other dogs, or even the handler. The worse thing with rewarding is that if you do so at the wrong time the dog gets a free cookie. Darn, one less treat for the exercise. That is also poor positive training and can be improved upon with the proper coaching. I would rather spend some time helping my clients with their timing than handing someone with poor timing a correction collar. Here is a simple exercise, next time commercials come on, clap every time the scene cuts. After several days of practicing maybe 2-3 minutes a day you will have better timing.

Lets train smarter, not harder. Lets use our brains and figure out how we can identify how we want our dogs to behave and lets teach it to them. 

In my behavior forms I ask people what they would most like to change about their dog's behavior. I then ask them to give alternatives. For instance I often get, "Stop his jumping" as the unwanted behavior and the alternative response, "Stop jumping". Okay great but what is it we want the dog to do? The simple answer is nothing. We want the dog to stop jumping up. So the most logical thing to do is reward the dog when he is not jumping up. 

Sounds simple right? The key to making this work is to work so quickly that at first your dog doesn't have the opportunity to even think to jump up. At first the only thing keeping their paws on the ground is your rapid fired treats thrown to the ground. after 10 rapid fire treats give your dog a few seconds to look up at you and remain with four on the floor. Slowly start to build the amount of time between treats. If you have taught sit chances are your dog may default to that, this is a jackpot moment. Use aleash tied to something, this will allow you to back up out of your dog's reach if they do forget and jump up on you. This is a punishment since you are removing something your dog wants (You). If your dog likesto jump up or mouth you when being pet you can also mark and reward the absence of that behavior. 

This works for many unwanted behaviors. Does your dog bark? Reward quiet. See my blog on using kongs to reward quiet. Does your dog mouth you? Bite the leash? Pull on leash? Chase the cat? Rewarding your dog when they are not doing these behaviors will lead to success. Set your dog up to get it right and make it worth their while. Check out this video of me rewarding the "nothing" to help Dex learn to stop jumping.

Dear Mr. Millan,
Let me start by saying when I first watched your show I was impressed. Your ability to help problem dogs and their owners resonated with me because that is my life's work. Your timing is excellent and I think I could put it to good use with a clicker in your hand. I soon fell out of love after watching a seminar of yours the same day I watched a Turid Rugaas DVD on body language and Sue Sternburg's Bite-O_Meter. Every stress and warning sign they spoke of I saw on your program and I was very confused. I knew from a young age that positive training is better and faster but what you did looked like magic. I learned about the arguments against dominance theory and punishment based training, along with the proven science behind positive training. TV is the only magic involved in your program. Your passion for what you do is evident and I don't think you love your dogs any differently than the way that I love mine. That is why it is my wish that you see them for what they truly are, wonderful, unique, and totally their own species. I am not a pack leader Mr Millan and I encourage you to let that go too.

I don't hate you Mr Millan, as my many in my profession do. I want to teach you, I want you to cross over and become a phenomenal force for force free training. Like so many others before you. I know you can do it too. I am a positive reinforcement trainer and I walk the walk. I promise to use TAG teaching to reward the behavior I like while setting you up to succeed by having you train a dog off leash. I'd let you start with Yuna, shes very forgiving of novice trainer mistakes. She doesn't have any behavior problems, even though I start everyday with affection. Affection also occurs during her exercise, which doesn't come in the form of endless walks but rather in a conditioning trick routine all of which she has learned without me laying hands on her. Discipline isn't really necessary since she is in control of herself, which again was taught without touches or pssts. We could take her on a walk, we'll use a jogging leash so you're not tempted to jerk on her and you can see how letting the dog sniff and explore is more beneficial that a forced march. She wont pull you, but she'll use as much of the leash as you give her. Yuna is a supremely confident dog, other dogs flock to her at a dog park and follow her wherever she may go. She does not need to prove anything because she is in control, she would be an example of a "dominant" dog. Not the dogs that posture, growl, and lunge.

Nitro would have been what you consider "red zone". My little ten pound monster. Six months ago when I adopted him he would whirl and bark when anything moved. From other dogs to leaves blowing across the ground. A consistent application of counter conditioning and becoming the most lovable and exciting thing around has changed that. He did just show me that bicycles are a challenge, I welcome you to watch me work him and see that positive reinforcement does in fact work on aggression. When we went to visit him at the rescue he was so fearful that we almost didn't take him home but my heart is louder than my head. The rescue that had him followed your methodology and within a week of leaving them he blossomed. He is shaping up to be everything I wanted and more. He is just enough challenge and all heart. I think he could teach you a lot. 

I too work with aggressive dogs. I am a last hope for many. Many of those people have gone to trainers that use similar methods to yours. You see, the most dangerous byproduct of your training is suppression. Can you explain to me how touching, tapping, and psstsing changes a dog's behavior? It works by punishing the unwanted behavior. In that moment the dog is more afraid of what you might do than the trigger they are facing. There are several problems that are now created. You see, the dog still feels the same way about the trigger if not worse. Whether it was fear, frustration, or insecurity now the threat of "touches" looms above them. Suppression is dangerous, the dog understands that if he barks or growls you will touch them again and that you will escalate and become more dangerous. But the trigger is still uncomfortable, you have done nothing to change how the dog feels or made a positive association. Now we have a dog that will bite without warning because growling or barking will cause you to become scary. My methods work, they work in the real world and they last a lifetime. There is no need to lay hands on dogs to change their behavior. Touching an animal is a privileged Mr. Millan, not a right.
 
Dogs are not wolves. Let me repeat that for you, dogs are not wolves. They have been on a separate path for thousands of years. To say that dogs think and act like wolves is an insult to them. It is the same as comparing chimp and human behavior, am I throwing my feces at you Mr Millan? No, and not because a country separates us but because I again, believe in rewarding behavior I like and creating positive associations. Furthermore, wolves do not practice dominance in the way you believe. They are a family unit, there is a mother, a father, offspring about a year old, and pups. Wolves do not fight for dominance, when they are old enough they go off and form their own packs. Young wolves do not fight with their parents for breeding rights to their parents. You've said that dogs do not follow the most lovable leader and there I have to disagree with you as well. I'm the pied piper; whenever I go, dogs follow, with or without food. Why? Because I'm the most fun and exciting thing around, they never know what I'm going to do next. In feral dog populations dogs do not live in packs rather they hang out in ones and twos. They choose to spend their time with the dogs they enjoy not the ones that are snappy or pushy. I want my dog to want to be near me, spend time with me, and provide the type of companionship only a dog can provide.

Many experts have already told you that your methods are outdated and there are better more effective ways of obtaining calm relaxed behavior from our dogs. Why on earth would you listen to a random trainer in Wisconsin? Well Mr Millan I'm here to tell you that I am the future of dog training. I am not quite thirty and I will be training dogs long after you have left this world. I also couldn't help but notice in a recent video that caused quite a stir that your reflexes aren't what they used to be. Switching to positive reinforcement is much less wear on the body. In fact despite the numerous aggression cases I have worked I've never been bitten and that is a point of pride for me. Plus there is no physical altercations, ever. I know you love dogs Mr. Millan and I admire your ability to empower people and that is what I want to do for you. I want to empower you to become a cross over trainer. You could positively influence the dog owning population. It takes a big man to admit when he is wrong. I'm asking you to swallow your pride and start the excellent adventure into the world of positive training. Consider this an open invitation to come learn anytime. I will teach you with compassion and praise and you will become a better person and an amazing trainer. We do the best we can with the knowledge we have at the time, please Cesar, expand your knowledge and do what is right for the dogs we are so passionate about.

Sincerely,
Ally Murdock
Incredible training, incredible dogs. 

Puppy class! Puppy class! Puppy classes! There are few things as fun as being in a room full of puppies!! I am very excited to start teaching puppies again and this time with all my own material. I have so many great ideas for socialization and creating tomorrow's incredible dogs! 

A well run puppy class is worth your puppy's weight in gold. Lack of socialization is the number one cause of unwanted behaviors such as fear and aggression. Unwanted behaviors are the number one reason dogs end up in shelters and ultimately put down if decided un-adoptable. I have known for a long time that training is the number one way to solve the unwanted animal crisis in America.

My classes will focus on exposing puppy to a myriad of new people, dogs, surfaces, and situations. When people think of socialization they tend to think about having their puppy meet new people and dogs but that is only part of the puzzle. When puppies are young (8-16 weeks) they are learning what is normal in everyday life. Now is the time to prepare your future dog for what they will experience in their day to day lives.

The other very important piece of the puzzle is that experiences must be pleasant not just happen. If your puppy is worried about a new person, dog, or thing allow them as much space as they may require. Use treats and praise to help your puppy recover and relax but do not force them closer or put them in the "scary" person's lap. A negative experience could mean months or even years of recovering. Calm, gradual, and thoughtful socialization is the key to confident social dogs. 

 Click "Read More" for the puppy checklist I will be providing to my students on their first night of class:

I started to teach Stark how to weave when he was fourteen months old, unfortunatley an injury has kept him from completing his training. I will update this blog when Nitro starts his weave training (in six months). I prefer the 2x2 method of weave training for at home learning and no other method beats the understanding a dog will have of entrances from this method. In class we start on 2x2 and then move to channel as it is easier or those that only practice in class.

Once your dog accuratly and enthusiastically running through the first two weaves it is time to add another set. At first you are going to reward between the two sets as they are, to your dog, two separate obstacles. Reward with a treat from your hand and then allow your dog to offer the second set. Since by now you've spent lots of sessions rewarding going through the poles your dog should run right to the next set. I like to start them about ten to fifteen feet apart and move them closer by about a foot every several reps. Within about three sessions I want to be able to only reward the second set of poles. Stark moved through this step in one session. I also use my treat and train because it makes timing of the marker and the reward placement perfect. In this video I added a third set but in th session after that I changed my mind and worked only with the two sets to keep his speed up. I would not recomend putting all three together like that, it was too much too soon. By the end of the last video the two sets are all the way together and he is actually weaving. This entire process for us took about a month working every other day two or three sessions in that day. Adding the third set is done the same way, keeping the first two sets together and putting the third five to ten feet away. Reward for the first two and then allow your dog to offer the third. Same as before, quickly fade out the middle treats. You can continue this pattern until your dog is weaving all twelve poles.

It is no secret that I love play. It is one of my favorite topics to learn and write about. It also happens to be my favorite thing to do with my dogs. Luckily for me (and them) our training sessions flow in such a way that if you asked them which they were doing they probably couldn't tell you. They would rather ask, "There's a difference?" 

But there are rules to play and they might not be what you think. In order to be used as a reward, play must be reinforcing, not the toy. If you throw a ball and your dog gleefully chases after it but then plays keep away the toy is the reward not the play. The problem this presents is that of conflict. If there is conflict in the training you will see toy chewing, reluctance to give up the toy, toy shaking, and racing quickly away. If you have to do this little song and dance every time you reward with a toy many things are going to happen; your dog will lose drive, your dog will lose focus, and you will become frustraited. 

There are many small steps I take to teach my dog that I am really fun to play with. I want them to know that we're equal partners in all of our games. These steps consist of teaching self control for toys, their actions push me to play, and I'll always give the toy back. It is a myth that you have to win the toy, we don't need to prove we're in charge. We are partners in this game. 

Before I have these rules in place I do not use toys as a reward in training. I will use them in between food training to play and keep my dog happy. Playing blows off steam and learining is stressful (not all stress is bad). It is also a good way to split what you're teaching so you don't blend criteria. Going from this high up state and then back down again is also valuable to me as that is the core of success in agility. (And several other dog sports.) 

The video is of Nitro's first session using toys as a reward. I adopted him a month ago and have been working at establishing a little bit of self control. Nitro is an over the top crazy puppy, very determined. At his last home he had learned that if he jumped around, nipped hands, and barked his head off it worked and he got what he wanted. He was also very wary of me when he had anything in his mouth, he had bitten me twice. What better way to teach him to trust me than building a cooperative working relationship through play. Teaching him to let of of a toy AND THEN restrain himself was and continues to be his biggest challenge. I have to watch him and keep him confident so we avoid conflict. Still a lot more work to be done but his skills are developed enough to use in training.

This is our first time using a toy as a reward, his second time seeing tunnels. I may have been over eager and lumped criteria together but I noticed it during the session and smoothed it out. Above all he is having a grand time. I see glimpses of brillance here. Nitro will keep me on my toes, he has already made me a better trainer.

Towards the four minute mark Nitro prefectly demonstraits why I want to avoid conflict. I asked for too much because he was doing so well! Oops, that was great but what is he going to remember? The awesome tunnels or being worried about me taking the toy? I make up for it by being fun and keeping it easy. Taking over a minute to just play with lots of easy outs and chasing. Then I again make it too hard! Sorry Nitro, I have to work at your pace, I'll get better! He was still having a blast, it is obvious when he chases after me asking that the session not end. Nitro is very different from my other two mild mannered dogs. With them I have always put drive over control, while Nitro just oozes drive, with him I will favor control. I can't wait to see where this crazy little dog takes me!